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Page last updated April 7, 2009
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The view of Greenwood from the steep hill on the south side of the narrow valley. The line of yellow aspens behind the buildings defines the route of Boundary Creek, beyond which lies the roadbed of the old Columbia & Western Railway, now part of the Trans Canada Trail but in use until 1990 as part of the Canadian Pacific Railway's Kettle Valley line. It is easy to imagine prospectors coming through this area in the 1880s and spotting rich ore in the rocky outcroppings for, as Robert Louis Stevenson wrote of the Cevennes (in Travels with a Donkey], "the stony skeleton of the world was here vigorously displayed to sun and air." The three buildings on the extreme left sit on South Copper Street--Highway 3, in fact, which is the main street. They are the two-story Guess Block, built in 1899 and now home to the Copper Eagle Cappuccino and Bakery; next to it, the red-brick three-story building is the Greenwood Inn, originally the Windsor Hotel, also built about 1899 and home to the town's pub and cafe today; the white three-story building was the Pacific Hotel, built in 1907 and, during the Second World War, #1 Internment Building housing more than 200 Japanese-Canadians. The 1902 house in the left foreground sits on South Government Street and was the home of W.E. McArthur, Sr., the mayor of Greenwood in 1942 who welcomed the opportunity to house almost 1200 Japanese-Canadians in the town's many empty buildings. The large turreted brick building is the post office and federal government building, erected about 1913-15, a few years before the collapse of copper prices that closed the local mines and smelters and sent the town into a tailspin. The courthouse (now City Hall) illustrated below is a block to the north (right) of the post office. Greenwood's landmark smokestack--the one relic remaining from the B.C. Copper Company's 1900 smelter--is a few hundred metres south (left) of the hotel and main street. |
Greenwood City Hall, built in 1902-3 as the provincial government building and courthouse. It was designed by George Dillon Curtis, an Irish-born architect who established a practice in Nelson in 1897 and designed public buildings there and in Rossland, Fernie, and Greenwood. (The well-known courthouse in Rossland was in fact designed by Curtis' future partner, John James Honeyman.) [source: Honeyman and Curtis, by Paul Mackenzie Bennett, in "Building the West: The Early Architects of British Columbia, ed. Donald Luxton, to be published in 2003] The building originally housed the gold commissioner's office, the chief constable and the mining recorder, as well as the functions of the county and supreme courts. There are three jail cells in the basement, one of which was part of the original design. The City of Greenwood bought it to use as its city hall in 1953, toward the end of the 14-year tenure of Mayor W.E. McArthur, Sr. [Source: Greenwood Heritage Walk brochure published by the Greenwood Heritage Society, 2001]
[Greenwood has always been one my favorite places and, for what it's worth, Christine and I have fantasized about moving there, but so far are too wedded to the coast and the farm. I wrote the piece on Greenwood as one of Canada's 10 Most Beautiful Towns in 2002--the one that is referred to on a number of the Greenwood and Boundary country websites. I really like the area and the people. The town itself is compact, with many interesting buildings and opportunities, both residential and commercial, to entice a couple of fogeys like us in need of a mid-life adventure . . . . Maybe the valley's a little too tight and there isn't enough sun on the town in winter, but who knows?]
Phoenix, in the mountains due east of Greenwood--photo from the 1930s by an anonymous photographer.
