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Two of the last surviving "original" cabins
on Shuswap
Lake, at
Pierre's Point, about 10 km west of Salmon Arm (between Sandy Point and
Tappen) on the Trans Canada highway, painted about 2000.
Once
upon a
lifetime ago, in the 1950s and
1960s, there was a long row of cabins including these, nearly all of
them on stilts, along the shoreline. In June, at the height of the
spring melt, these cabins were often standing in a metre or more of
water, but by the end of summer they stood on the edge of 100 metres of
beach. No electricity, no running water, no worries – this
was
"cottaging" in an era when people had more leisure than money (for the
BC interior, the 1940s and 1950s).
I write about Shuswap
Lake with some feeling and
considerable knowledge as I spent the summers from about age 7 through
age 16 in a cabin like one of these. I wrote about Shuswap Lake as part
of a series of articles in Cottage Magazine – the
major article, positively dripping with nostalgia, begins below. When I
went back there in the fall of 2000 I found very few of the old places
still standing and, to be honest, found it difficult to orient myself.
In the 35 years since we sold the cabin, trees had grown old and died,
places had been demolished and replaced by new, plush ones and, most
significantly, a couple of years of freakishly high water had destroyed
a number of cabins and altered the shoreline.
These cabins qualify as
"Vanishing BC" because, in the
1950s, a couple with not much money and two children (like my parents)
could buy a cabin on a piece of beautiful beach for $425 and retain it
year after year for a leasing fee of $50, made possible by the
compliance (oppression) of the local Indian band, on whose land it
stood. It is an interesting comparison with the cottages on the Gulf Islands and the Sunshine Coast, which are
handed down from generation to generation and for the families that own
them more like "home" than their year-round residences.
Please send in stories
if you had a cabin (never a cottage)
on a lake such as these ones.
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Shuswap Summers
Michael Kluckner
(first published in Cottage Magazine,
July/August 2000)
By comparison
with people whose families own Gulf Island retreats or cabins on
prairie lakes, I have no cottage to inherit, no family tradition to
maintain. All I’ve got is the memory of ten childhood summers
on Shuswap Lake in the B.C. interior.
My family has tended to go its separate ways, only coming together for
the occasional Christmas dinner. But a generation ago, in the decade
culminating in my sixteenth birthday, we made an annual pilgrimage to
“the lake.” There, from Dominion Day to Labour Day,
my mother, brother Paul, and I (joined by my father for his annual
vacation and sporadically by other relatives) lived a carefree,
shoeless--or at least sockless--existence.
I have often wondered since how much of the magic was due to physical
circumstances--the lake, the forest and the cabin--and how much was due
to timing. Although it was the 50s and 60s, which today’s
conventional wisdom brands as materialistic and obsessed with newness,
my parents were content with the rustic cabin and the utter relaxation
it offered. We children were simple creatures, used to making our own
fun. There was little to do beyond imagine and play, and few of the
other people on the lake had enough money to spoil it.
Earlier, we had spent my father’s summer holidays on car
trips, usually tenting in provincial park campgrounds. We ranged across
the country to visit relatives in Quebec, and travelled through the
American west to Yellowstone National Park and down the coast to
California. The summer I was seven, after spending a week at a dude
ranch called Rose Lake Lodge near 100 Mile House, we detoured to Salmon
Arm rather than returning directly to the coast via the Fraser Canyon.
“Your father has an old army friend he’d like to
visit,” mother explained.
Arriving late on the sultry evening before the planned rendezvous, we
stopped at a resort called Glen Echo, near Tappen on the west side of
Shuswap Lake not far from Salmon Arm, just as a thunderstorm was
massing in the sky above Bastion Mountain. As the wind picked up, Dad
wrestled with the flapping canvas while Mum spread out our prospective
dinner, which looked a lot like lunch, on the front seat of the
‘54 Chev sedan. In the middle of the night, with the downpour
drumming on the tent roof and our parents trying to keep us from
rolling against its canvas sides, a wild roar shook us awake and a
shockingly bright, white light flooded the tent. I saw trees starkly
silhouetted, panicked, and, clawing my way out of my sleeping bag, was
restrained by my father’s arm as the train screamed past. We
were sleeping no more than 50 feet from the CPR mainline!
The following day, at the suggestion of the army buddy, we moved into
his cabin at Pierre’s Point, a cottage community a half mile
south of Glen Echo and a few hundred yards (at least) from the tracks.
At the end of an idyllic week there, it turned out he was considering
selling it. Perhaps my parents were tired of the road trips, or were
irritated by the public campgrounds, or found my brother and me too
unruly to camp with. Perhaps they’d planned it all along? I
was told later they paid $425; our house in Vancouver was worth perhaps
$15,000.
After so many hours in the hot car gazing at scenery or rereading
memorized comic books in the back seat, Paul and I thought the
lakefront cabin was heaven. At the end of a rutted, single-lane dirt
track, this simple frame box with a low-pitched moss-covered roof and
an uncovered front deck stood on stilts in a cottonwood grove on the
edge of the beach, midway between the lake’s high- and
low-water marks. By August, 50 yards of white sand separated it from
the shoreline. A few floats and docks extended into the water and a few
rowboats were pulled up onto the sand. Behind the cabin stretched
mysterious, explorable forest. I remember card houses built by the
light of the hissing Coleman lamps, hinged windows that latched under
the eaves to let in the afternoon breeze, pancakes cooked on the
woodstove’s griddle, and the icebox chilled by ice dug from
the sawdust in an old icehouse that the local people filled with blocks
cut from the lake each winter. We got our water in bottles each week in
Salmon Arm, and bought fruit and vegetables from local farmers.
There were no urban diversions, nothing to keep us indoors except heavy
rain. A powerful, battery-operated radio provided the only link to the
outside world: newscasts on the local station at dinner time, a Top-40
radio show for an hour in the evening and, on clear nights, B.C. Lions
football games broadcast from Vancouver on CKWX, or was it CKNW?
We bought a rowboat and a few airmattresses and spent endless hours
rowing and swimming. I was the sort of child who identified with the
Indians in western movies, and stealthily explored the woods, dressed
in a breechcloth and moccasins with a feather stuck in my headband.
Mosquito bait. In the evenings, I carved and painted bear claws and
other regalia with my pocketknife and paintbrushes.
One reason the place was so affordable for my parents was that we,
along with the other cottagers, were exploiting the real
Indians, members of the Shuswap band whose land we were leasing for an
annual fee of $50 per lot. Slowly, in heavily-laden station wagons and
sedans, we cottagers trundled down the potholed road from the highway
to the lake, lumbering through the real
Pierre’s Point--small, government-built bungalows with
low-pitched roofs, pink siding on the lower half of the walls and
stucco above, a hayfield bisected by the CPR mainline, a pole and
plywood barn sheltering a couple of horses, old bicycles and
broken-down cars strewn about, children playing in the dust. When my
parents replaced the ‘54 with a powder-blue, 1959 Impala
convertible with huge tailfins, our arrival must have shouted
“city slickers.”
The other cottagers were, in the main, folks from Salmon Arm. The Glens
next door owned the sporting goods store, and had a 14-foot fibreglass
speedboat with an 18-horsepower Johnson outboard motor. As difficult as
it is to imagine now, when 200 horsepower skiboats are de
rigueur, a boat that size was adequate for pulling everybody
but one fat relative, who nearly dragged it over backwards. Their
well-endowed daughter wore a bikini, a matter of some comment among
adults and binocular-toting boys.
In the next cabin lived the Magees. He was a contract logger, with a
portable sawmill, a logging truck and a V8-powered work boat used for
towing log booms from the far reaches of the lake. Beyond a thicket
stood the cabin of the Gorses, who had a coal business in Salmon Arm;
in the 60s, they were among the first to rent the sort of houseboats
for which Shuswap Lake is now well-known. The town’s
electrician and family occupied the next cabin. We came to know a
handful of other children further along the beach due to the elaborate
games, usually variations on “hide and seek,” that
occupied us many afternoons and, following the banged frypan summoning
us to dinner, through until twilight. If rain ever persisted, the
jigsaw puzzles were put away and a game of Monopoly would begin,
sometimes continuing for days.
The Magees’ two children, Susan and Nigel, became our steady
companions, joined occasionally by the Glen’s boy, Randy.
Nigel
was my age while Susan, a slender, dark-haired, pretty girl, was a year
or so older--almost my brother’s age. As we grew up, I
developed
a heartrending crush on her, reinforced by Nigel’s absence
much
of the time, working with his father, and Paul’s trips each
summer to a YMCA camp. Susan and I spent endless hours swimming,
rowing, talking about pop music, movie stars and the mindless fashions
of the time, or playing cards--”Snap” and
“Fish” in the early years, gin rummy and cribbage
later--on
the covered porch of her cabin. Meanwhile, my mother puttered happily
along, sunbathing and reading Perry Mason novels, never obviously
lonely or bored. When Dad came up from the city, he would manage a
morning’s relaxation before the leisurely lakeside pace got
to
him and he sought something to fix--in slow years, he was reduced to
raking leaves from the sandy trails that ran around the cabin and out
back to the biffy. We thought he was crazy.
Although they steadfastly refused our reasoned yet passionate arguments
on why we needed a waterski boat, my parents eventually bought a very
used five-horsepower outboard, perhaps to help get Aunt Ruby out to
better trolling grounds. Meanwhile, however, a more up-to-date,
affluent group of vacationers had discovered Shuswap. Even by the
mid-60s the air was alive with the buzzing of outboards and the shrieks
of waterskiers as they zipped along the beachfront. Many were from the
commercial resort, Sandy Point, a mile closer to Salmon Arm.
Sandy Point had a convenience store and a steady parade of campers,
notably girls, who passed through during the summer. As we shuffled
into teenagehood, its comparatively bright lights beckoned. For the
first time, a note of disapproval crept into mother’s voice.
She had always been tolerant of our exploring, our swimming, our trips
in the rowboat way out into the lake, somehow certain that the
combination of our common sense and the benign world would keep us from
harm.
The electrician neighbour came by one summer, trying to sign my parents
up for a scheme to bring in a power line from the highway. They
couldn’t see the point in it, but enough others did. The
electrician had his cabin wired, like a display suite, and installed a
television that attracted the small-town children like wasps to a
cherry pie. Soon, there were no evening games and fewer family
campfires and sing-alongs. I began to hear amplified music as I walked
along the beach.
As quickly as it began, our cabin idyll ended. Concurrently, my mother
became ill and could only spend a couple of weeks away from home. We no
longer got into the lakeside pace, and the 1966 Lovin’
Spoonful song, “Summer in the City,” took on a real
meaning. Late that summer, Susan’s boyfriend came out from
town; the following year, immediately after high-school graduation,
they married. Her parents announced they were moving to Salt Spring
Island, where there were good logging opportunities and a better
climate for retirement. Nigel went to Alberta to look for work. Randy
grew his hair past his shoulders and joined a rock band. Paul had a
summer job at the dam site near Castlegar and was returning to
university in the fall. Left behind that hot August, I just drifted,
hanging out at the beach parties at Sandy Point, with the harvest moon
glowing orange in the forest-fire smoke. This, I recall thinking, will
be my last summer at this dull place--next year I’ll get a
job in the city.
Dad sold the cabin the following year, ostensibly because the lease
rates were about to triple. But, in reality, everything had changed and
there was no going back.
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From Bill Suckling, Blind Bay,
2011:

Pierre's Point cabins
near the Glen Echo end, about 1953

View
from out on the lake, 1950s
Classic view across
the lake to Engineer's Point, on the right,
looking up the arm toward Sicamous.

At the Skelton Cabin
at Pierre's Point, about 1947

View of Salmon Arm in
the early 1950s
I just read
your article on the Shuswap Pierre's Point experiences [above]. I must
say it
brought back many wonderful memories I had long forgotten. It is almost
a carbon copy
of my experiences while growing up spending summers there. Thinking
about it I really
must share a few thoughts.
So may descriptions of time spent are parallel .. reading comics on the
porch when it
was raining ... the after-supper games of what we called
'kick the can'; There were no
rules – you just kind of ran around pretending to hide and I
really don't
remember how
they ended ... I do remember seeing the Dominion or possibly the
Canadian rounding
Engineer' Point and waiting for it to come by the cabin .. which
signified bedtime by
the way.
Our cabin had planks as a floor with cracks between which is where we
swept the sand
tracked in ... we had an ice box and Mother made ice in milk cartons at
home - we still had
milk delivered in bottles but could request cartons if desired which
were brought out
weekly. We also had a Dumb Waiter of sorts built into the sand which
operated on a
pull rope pulley system kind of like a small elevator ... the cabinet
sunk down into the
sand about three feet and served as a cool room. Access was from the
kitchen. My daily
chores included stocking the wood box and making kindling plus rowing
to the spring to
get fresh water. I suspect it was designed to use up some time during
the day but I still
have great memories of visiting that little spring below the Bedford
cabins and tasting
that clear cold water. Funny how such a simple pleasure is so fondly
remembered.
We also played long and hard with our immediate neighbors the Jameson
(sp?) clan.
There were 5 children – Sue, Mary, Larry, Nancy and JoAnne.
Their Father Rollie had a
sheet metal plumbing business in town. Mrs J. (Marge) had a large cow
bell and it ruled
the beach in our group. Swim time was 10AM for 1 hour and again at 2PM
for 2 hours.
When that bell rang you had best be getting out of the water if you
wanted to swim next time
around. Pavlov would have been impressed. Beach activity followed
building sand
castles and whatever else the plan dictated at the time. No texting, no
TV and no phone – not
even any power but somehow we all survived.
Not sure about your beach time but we had this rule about not going
swimming for an
hour after you ate or you would get cramps ... you ever get cramps?? My
mother came
clean many years later telling us it was a way to keep us out of the
water for a while
requiring less supervision. I have a notion that story was used many
time. I have never
met anyone who got cramps from swimming immediately after a meal.
One of the best memories was Fridays. Because my Dad worked in town
during the
week, he would drive out on Friday after work ... he brought fresh ice,
vegetables from
our garden and frozen meat but best of all he brought a brick of ice
cream. We always
had a big lunch on Fridays so that we could have the ice cream when it
arrived because
it was usually so hot it would not survive long. No supper as such that
day but later
on in the evening we had a camp fire and ate some marshmallows and
sometimes even
a hot dog. The marshmallows came in a kind of package/box called
campfire and they were always rock hard so it was a trial and error to
get them on a fresh cut willow
stick.
Another exciting time was all about water skiing. Of course none of us
had a boat with a
motor ... I remember well a family friend of the J's came to spend a
week. He brought a
tent and joined our clan .. Bob Jeglum and family (sp). He brought a
boat, not a huge one but
it had a 40HP Evinrude. WOW! We all got to water ski. We each had a
turn and some
twice. We were in heaven so to speak and in the “big
times,” so we thought. Such>
simple pleasures were a daily happening throughout those carefree
summers back
then.
Mosquitos Mosquitos Mosquitos – I must share this .... as you
are well aware I think,
Pierre's Point must have been the mosquito capital of the world. At
least it seemed like
it at the time. One particular summer one of the local cabin owners who
had an
orchard in the South Broadview area, BIll McDermot, used his tractor to
pull his
orchard sprayer out to Pierre's and they sprayed from the point to the
Glen Echo
end ... I can well imagine what the chemical was but it sure worked.
After the tractor
and sprayer noise was gone the air was so quiet and no mosquitos. I
suspect it was
DDT and diesel fuel mixed with water.
Some of the other local Family names of cabin owners were Bob Harvey,
Herb Elliot,
Spence Tatchel, Dick Cousins, Albert Bedford, Harry Absen, Bill
McDermot and Sam Miller to name a few. Spelling not necessarily correct.
I recently sold my 23-foot pontoon boat as the lake had become a total
lawless
playground for the current players who seem to think they own it and
can do
what they please whenever and wherever ... particularly in July and
August. There is
some effort to “enforce” the issues but typically
manpower shortages, legal issues and
general societal mindsets are restricting the success. Gone are the
days
when you could go on the lake for a pleasant cruise, find some quiet
shore (no stereos)
to rest a while and perhaps enjoy a picnic. I am so thankful to have
had the “Shuswap
Experience” at a time when your word meant something and a
handshake sealed a
deal.
***
Note
from Cheryl Christianson née Hammer, 2010:
We were at Pierre's Point approx. 1965 to 1976. We were at the very end
- near Glen Echo - neighbours were Obens, Coglins - once in awhile we
played with Minnow Campbell (his family had one of the oldest
sites -
near the 'native' beach) then - at the other end, near Sandy Point we
chummed with Mercers and Brushes.
I've attached 1974 images of
buildings – the boat launch has Coglin's cabin (one of the
only ones actually build on the beach
along 'our' whole stretch (we
used to sleep on the sand under the deck when the water was low enough)
and our little unit with many family sitting watching something
wonderful I am sure! I worked at Sandy Point Resort with my
close
friend Eileen Lidstone around the same time as the attached photos.
Note
from Sandra Jacob, 2008:
We still have our family cabin at Pierre's Point.
Each time
the lease goes up, we have the debate of "sell or not
sell. " Our place is just south 3 cabins
from the one
pictured on your web page. Fifty years is a long time and we
are
currently hanging on for "one more year". My nephew plans to
be
married at the cabin this summer.
I was born in Salmon Arm, and so was my mother. My
grandfather,
Jack Urquhart, had an ice house at the back of the city lot, and I do
remember the ice being hauled from the lake and stored there. He had a
delivery business and supplied ice for the ice boxes in
town. By
the time we had the place at Pierre's Point the ice business was
finished for Urquhart's Transfer. In our early time at
the lake
mom would make ice in the deep freeze in town to keep our food cool in
the ice box. We had electricity installed about 1969.
We have all found the sound of the
train and the
rocking in the night somewhat comforting. The bedtime train coming
around Engineer's Point at about 10:45 would remind us to get
to
bed. The young people now don't seem to want to be up early in the
morning for the best time of the day. We have made many trips
with
the youngsters up to the tracks to count the cars on the train .
We acquired the lot from Gene
Spence (who was the
postmaster at the time) in the early 50's. My dad and uncle
built
the cabin, probably around 1952. When my parents were young, that same
property was leased by the Jacksons from Salmon Arm, and the
young people spent quite a bit of time there. My mom used to tell us
about walking the cow along the tracks to pasture at the back so they
would have milk while they were camping. There are pictures! There were
a a couple of concrete slabs on the beach on which that group
erected tents; one for a cook house. We still find bits of concrete
coming to the surface when the children are digging.
Note from Ted Hayes,
Prince George: I was born and spent my early years in
Kamloops where my father was a machinist on the CPR. Quite a few
Kamloops tradesmen and their families used to spend their summer
holidays at Glen Echo at the resort that still exists today. My parents
did not have a car, but their friends would drive us to the lake in
their A40 Austins.
People with more money stayed in
the cabins on the beach while we usually stayed in a cabin on the
highway side of the tracks. All of the cabins were extremely primitive.
As I recollect, they had iron frame beds, plain wooden table and chairs
and a small wood cooking range. I think they had only one room. I think
that there was no electricity and that we used oil lamps with mantles.
If you didn't stay in the beach cabins, you used to have to cross the
railway tracks to get to the beach. Rowboats were available for fishing
and there was a reduced daily rate if you rented a boat with your
cabin. I remember the dirt road from the cabins, across the tracks to
the beach. It was lush and dark -- quite unlike Kamloops. And the
cabins were dark in the trees.
We went there on our holidays
every year for several years from about 1950. I remember that the
Summers family who owned the paint store in Kamloops used to go there
with their kids who were about my age. I think the Fills, who lived
more or less across the alley from us in Kamloops went there a few
times, too. Howard Fill worked for the CNR and was a local war hero.
His wife, Grace, was an English war bride. I think the Fills also used
to go to Silvery Beach. The resort had a little store in the house
where the owner lived. We could get supplies of various sorts there.
The beach was beautiful. Sandy
with flecks of mica through it. The lake was wonderful. I learned to
swim on those holidays. Kamloops was not a particularly good place to
learn to swim because the only place to do it was the Thompson River
(no swimming pools in those days). It was rather swift for small
children and always seemed to be under polio quarantine in the summer.
But Shuswap was warm with a sandy bottom and no current. I remember the
beach sand and how it would get so hot during the day that it was
difficult to walk on it. We would have to run across the beach into the
water.
I think that the last time we went
to Glen Echo was probably 1958 or 59 after a few years' hiatus. By then
we had moved to Squamish and my father had a bought a car. Few of the
Kamloops families went there by that time. I remember a coast family
named Ward staying there. I don't think they had stayed there before.
Like you, I still remember those endlessly hot summer days with great
affection. I can still smell the damp, verdant air around the lake's
perimetre. I can still feel the excitement of fishing in the row boat
and peering down into the blackness of the water.
In my adult years, I have been
many times to Shuswap. What is most noticable is the commercialization
and the people. Neither were much evident in the 50s. And power boats
were pretty scarce. There were a few small communities and a few
resorts here and there. That was about it. I'm not sure you can find
places like that any more.
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